A VISIT TO THE PETALUMA HISTORICAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM

A bright Saturday in January took us to check out the town of Petaluma, CA with my full intention being to stop at the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum first. I had always skirted around the historic downtown on trips to places further north and it wasn’t until my neighbor told me that I should really spend some time there that I put it on my “must see” list. 

What a delight it was! I was taken by how many old brick buildings there were to the point that I noticed those old star shaped exterior washers that are holding long metal support bolts in place and had to explain them to my kids. Living in California for the last seven years has taught me that brick is an anomaly. 

It turns out, Petaluma largely survived the 1906 earthquake because it’s built on some pretty hearty bedrock so many of the old Victorian buildings and homes (there are a lot) predate the 20th century. Now, of course, so many of those buildings hold boutiques, adorable restaurants, and antique galleries. 

The agricultural history of Petaluma also speaks loudly for itself: The Petaluma river shipped all kinds of goods from the town to San Francisco during the Gold Rush. For a time, Petaluma was “The Egg Basket of the World,” as the egg incubator was perfected here in 1878. Hatcheries, well, hatched all over the place and by the 1940s there were 4,000 egg farms in Sonoma County. In 1945, 612 million eggs were laid. The poultry industry thrived until the 1960s. There are relics of the deep agricultural past scattered throughout town–grain mills, hatcheries, old warehouses. 

I, of course, went to Petaluma to see the old Carnegie Library.

Growing up in a 1906 Carnegie Library (that still thrives today) as my home branch gave me the earliest impression that all libraries had marble staircases, gorgeous tilework, and vaulted fireplaces in every room. I am still getting over the fact that is not the case. So whenever I can find a Carnegie that is still standing, I’m eager to visit.

Petaluma’s library is one of the first erected in California. Andrew Carnegie gave the city $12,500 and the rest of the funds were donated by locals–mostly from a women’s group–totaling $20,000. The land was sold to the city on the cheap by civic leader Addie Atwater and the cornerstone was laid in 1904. The city’s famed architect, Brainerd Jones, (who went on to commission many of Petaluma’s commercial buildings) designed the Classical Revival building based on the “City Beautiful” movement. It includes twin staircases, corinthian columns, second-story fan windows, wood paneling, and a leaded glass dome that is the largest in Northern California. I swooned. You will too.

The library opened its doors in 1906 and was miraculously left pretty unscathed by the April 18th earthquake. It served as a library until 1978 when it was transitioned into what it is today–a local history museum and research library. There are exhibits on both levels of the building focused on the Miwok tribe, and plenty on the poultry and dairy industries. I found the relics from a 19th century school, Pepper Kindergarten, to be appealing (like a pint-sized wooden carousel). Though I breezed through quite quickly as I found myself missing books.

The Hoppy Hopkins Memorial Research Library section was curious. It was named after a local historian (1921-2003) and contains artifacts like newspapers, old city directories, and yearbooks. Small and closed off for the most part, I wondered if anyone really used it. It just seemed dusty. 

I ventured downstairs and asked the woman working at the old circulation desk if anyone ever uses the research library. She said that they have a local gentleman who comes in every Thursday. Though she made it sound more like a kooky habit rather than real research. She did, however, say that way back when the land was being sold to the city there was a very clever loophole added to the contract.

It read that the building always had to be used for some purpose of a library or the city would have to cede the land back to the original owners. Ah-ha. That makes a lot more sense. But if this little 117-year-old loophole is saving a Carnegie from being demolished like so many others before it, I’ll happily settle. 

When you’re done at the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum check out all of the other greats this town has to offer. Shop for books at Copperfield’s. Indulge in the pastries at Stellina Pronto or the pies at Petaluma Pie Company. Enjoy oysters at The Shuckery or dinner at Street Social. Grab and beer and listen to live music at Lagunitas Brewery.

If you’re headed further into wine country don’t miss the Jack London State Historic Park.

Petaluma Historical Library and Museum is located at 20 4th Street in Petaluma, CA 94952 roughly 40 miles north of San Francisco. It’s open Thursday to Sunday from 10am-4pm and is free to enter. There are restrooms on site.

Have you visited the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum? Let me know what you thought about it in the comments!